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A
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Abrasion Resistance
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Typically measured in "double rubs", the degree by which a fabric is able to withstand loss of appearance through surface wear, rubbing, chafing, and other friction.
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Acetate
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A manufactured fiber formed by a compound of cellulose, refined from cotton linters and/or wood pulp, and acedic acid.
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Acrylic
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A man-made fiber known for its soft, wool-like hand. Solution-dyed versions such as Sunbrella feature excellent resistance to sunlight and chlorine.
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Altered Leather
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Leather that has had the original surface of the skin or hide removed, (usually due to imperfections in the original grain surface), and a new grain embossed into the leather. This is also called corrected grain. Most top-grain leathers have altered or corrected grain.
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Angora
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The hair of the Angora goat. Used in making genuine mohair fabrics.
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Aniline
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The name given to the particular transparent dye used to color dyed leather.
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Aniline Leather
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Leather that has been dyed through with aniline dyes. Pure aniline leathers represent approximately 5% of all upholstery leathers produced worldwide. Sometimes topped with a protective coating; can also be waxed. Aniline leather will allow all natural characteristics of a hide to show through.
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Anti-Bacterial (Anti-Microbial)
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A fabric or a fiber that incorporates an anti-bacterial chemical agent into the fiber formula, making the finished fiber or fabric resistant to, or inhibiting the growth of micro-organisms. Useful in outdoor, healthcare and hospitality applications.
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B
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Backing
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A knit or woven backing material used to provide strength and tear-resistance to fabrics in order to make them suitable for additional applications such as wallcovering or upholstery.
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Bargello
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A modified zigzag or flamelike design, or any pattern like this. Originated as a needlepoint stitch.
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Barre
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An imperfection, characterized by a ridge or mark running in the crosswise or lengthwise directions of the fabric. Barrés can be caused by tension variations in the knitting process, poor quality yarns and problems during the finishing process.
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Bartack
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To reinforce a seam with a bar of stitches that provides a more durable seam end. (Commonly used at points of strain.)
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Basket Weave
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A variation of the plain weave construction, formed by treating two or more warp yarns and/or two or more filling yarns as one unit in the weaving process.
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Blackout Lining
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A thick, plain fabric, usually white or off-white in color, used in conjunction with drapery fabric. Blackout is used to prevent light from passing through drapery.
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Bleaching
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A process of whitening fibers, yarns, or fabrics by removing the natural and artificial impurities to obtain clear whites for finished fabric, or in preparation for dyeing and finishing. The materials may be treated with chemicals or exposed to sun, air, and moisture.
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Blend
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A yarn or a fabric that is made up of more than one fiber. In blended yarns, two or more different types of staple fibers are twisted or spun together to form the yarn. Examples of a typical blended yarn or fabric is polyester/cotton.
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Boston Fire Code BFD-IX 1
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The purpose of this test is to limit the flammability of decorations, including not only decorative materials, i.e. curtains and draperies, but also upholstery materials and surface coverings applied over a building\'s interior finish. A stricter test than the UFAC Class 1.
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Boucle
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A knit or woven fabric made from a rough, curly, knotted boucle yarn. The fabric has a looped, knotted surface and is often used in sportswear and coats as well as decorative fabrics.
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Bouquet
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A design characterized by an arrangement or grouping of flowers.
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Bovine
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A cow, ox, or closely related animal.
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Brahma
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Brahma is one of the most popular breeds of cattle raised around the world. Due to its greater ability to withstand heat, parasites and insects, it is a preferable breed to be raised in warmer climates. As a result, Brahma hides are typically in good supply and provide a raw material source for entry-level leather hides. The Brahma has a distinct large hump over the top of its shoulder and neck. This hump leaves a narrow gap in the leather hide made from Brahma, but can be worked around, as long as one plans use of materials properly.
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Breathability
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The movement of water or water vapor from one side of the fabric to the other, caused by capillary action, wicking, chemical, or electrostatic action. Also known as moisture transport.
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Brocade
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A heavy, exquisite jacquard type fabric with an all-over raised pattern or floral design. Often gives an embossed appearance by contrasting surface colors and gold or silver yarns.
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Brocatelle
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A fabric similar to brocade with a satin or twill figure in high relief on a plain or satin background.
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Brushing
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A finishing process for fabrics in which brushes or other abrading devices are used to permit the fibers in the yarns to be raised to create a nap on fabrics or create a novelty surface texture. Creates a softer-handed fabric.
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Buffed
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Leather which has been abrased or sueded. This can also be referred to as snuffed, nubuck leather, or grain-sueded leather.
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Burlap
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A loosely constructed, heavy weight, plain weave fabric used as a carpet backing, and as inexpensive packaging for sacks of grain or rice. Also, as fashion dictates, burlap may also appear as a drapery fabric.
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Burn-out
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A brocade-like pattern effect created on the fabric through the application of a chemical, instead of color, during the burn-out printing process. The chemical destroys the fiber and creates a hole in the fabric in a specific design, where the chemical comes in contact with the fabric. Burn-out effects can also be created on velvets made of blended fibers. When the chemical is printed in a certain pattern, it destroys the pile in some areas where the chemical comes in contact with the fabric, but leaves the other parts unharmed.
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C
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Cabretta
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A hair-type sheepskin; specifically those from Brazil.
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Calendering
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A process for finishing fabrics in which such special effects as high luster, glazing, embossing, and moiré are produced.
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Calfskin
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Skin from a young bovine, male or female.
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Calico
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A tightly-woven cotton type fabric with an all-over print, usually a small floral pattern on a contrasting background color. Typically used in apparel and quilting.
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California Technical Bulletin 117 Section E
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To meet the requirements of this test, a fabric must meet UFAC Class 1. However, of all the flammability test procedures, this test is probably the most minimal.
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California Technical Bulletin 133
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This test applies to the entire piece of furniture, including fabric, foam and frame. Because the test requires a fully made piece of furniture to be tested, no fabric by itself can be said to meet this specification.
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Canvas
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Cotton, linen, or synthetic fabric made with a basic plain weave in heavy and firm weight yarns for industrial or heavy duty purposes. Also referred to as "duck", although the term "canvas" usually relates to the heavier, coarser constructions.
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Cattlehide
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General term for hides before tanning from a bovine of any breed or sex, but usually mature; includes bullhide, steerhide, cowhide and sometimes kipskins.
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Cavallo
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The natural hide of a pony. Smaller and usually softer than that of cow hides.
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Center Cut Suede
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Also called a "true split". A suede split that has had the edges trimmed to leave the bends and the shoulder, leaving the best and most usable part, or the center of the material.
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Challis
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A lightweight, soft plain weave fabric with a slightly brushed surface. The fabric is often printed, usually in a floral pattern. Challis is most often seen in fabrics made of cotton, wool, or rayon.
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Chambray
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A plain woven fabric that can be made from cotton, silk, or manufactured fibers, but is most commonly cotton. It incorporates a colored warp (often blue) and white filling yarns
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Chenille
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A specialty yarn, characterized by a pile protruding on all sides, resembling a caterpillar. Chenille yarn is used mainly for decorative fabrics, embroidery, tassels, and rugs, and creates a plush, typically soft, yet durable fabric.
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Chevron
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A herringbone weave or print in zig-zag stripes.
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Chinoiserie
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A pattern derived from Chinese floral or pastoral designs. Typically used in printed fabrics, it can also be seen in jacquard wovens.
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Chintz
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A plain-weave fabric, which has been glazed to produce a polished look. Usually made of cotton, this fabric is most commonly used in blouses, apparel, dresses, draperies, and slipcovers.
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Cleaning Code
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Furniture and textile manufacturers have adopted a voluntary uniform standard for fabric cleanability. Each fabric is marked with a code which indicates the appropriate cleaning method or methods. These typically include W - for water-based cleaning agents, S - for solvent-based cleaning agents, W/S - where either may be used, and X - for vacuum or light brushing only. Please note that these are general guidelines for care. Prior to making any attempt at cleaning, we recommend that you contact your fabric supplier for appropriate cleaning instructions or contact a fabric cleaning professional.
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Coated Fabrics
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Fabrics that have been coated with a lacquer, varnish, rubber, plastic resin of polyvinyl chloride (PVC Vinyl) or polyethylene, polyurethane, or other substance to make them longer lasting, improve cleanability or make them impervious to water or other liquids.
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Cold Crack
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"Cold Crack" refers to the point at which a vinyl-coated fabric will lose it pliability and crack due to long exposure to extreme cold. This performance characteristic is an important factor to consider in choosing a vinyl fabric for outdoor (snowmobile, motorcycle, playset, etc.) use.
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Colorfastness
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A term used to describe a dyed fabric's ability to resist fading due to washing, exposure to sunlight, and other environmental conditions.
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Contemporary Fabric
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Refers to fabrics with a modern look. Often characterized by geometric or abstract designs.
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Contract Fabric
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Heavy duty wearing material, made to certain specifications; for example particular, flammability codes or abrasion resistance. The end use is normally hospitality or public places. For contract use, a fabric must meet a minimum abrasion resistance of 30,000 double rubs.
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Corduroy
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A fabric, usually made of cotton, with extra sets of filling yarns woven into the fabric to form ridges of yarn (wales) on the surface.
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Corrected Grain
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The outside skin is sanded or abraded to minimize faults. It is then pigmented to cover the sanding and printed with an artificial grain. A spray sealer topcoat is then applied. Corrected grain material is usually called top grain leather.
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Cotton
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A natural fiber that grows in the seed pod of the cotton plant. The most widely used natural fiber, cotton has a high strength and softness, which gives it great versatility.
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Cotton Print
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Fabric designs printed on a cotton base cloth.
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Country of Origin
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Country of Origin refers to the source of the finished textile, that is, where it was woven. Component yarns making the fabric may have been manufactured in other locations around the world, but a fabric's origin is where it has been woven into its finished state.
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Cowhide
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Hide from a mature female bovine that has produced a calf.
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Crocking
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The rubbing-off of dye from a fabric.
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Crypton
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Crypton is a patented textile-finishing process applied to textiles which meet a strict series of criteria, creating textiles that are stain, water, and bacteria resistant. Typically used in hotels, restaurants, cruise ships, health care, and other heavy traffic applications, Crypton provides a softer, better-looking alternative to other moisture resistant materials such as vinyl and hard surfaces. Crypton can also be used in the home for care-free, long-lasting freedom from spills, odors and stains.
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Cut Velvet
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Velvet with a cut-out pile that creates a pattern or design.
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D
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Damask
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A glossy jacquard fabric, usually made from linen, cotton, rayon, silk, or blends. Damask patterns are flat and reversible. The fabric is often used in traditional settings.
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Denim
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True denim is a twill weave cotton fabric made with different colored yarns in the warp and the weft. Due to the twill construction, one color predominates on the fabric surface.
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Distressed Leather
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Leather that has been treated to look vintage or old like a "bomber jacket" or an old briefcase or piece of luggage.
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Ditzy
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A term used to refer to any small scaled patterns which may include checks, dots, fans, diamonds and more.
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Dobby Weave
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A decorative weave, characterized by small figures, usually geometric, that are woven into the fabric. Standard dobby fabrics are usually flat and have relatively simple designs, as opposed to jacquard-woven fabrics.
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Duck
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A tightly woven, heavy, plain-weave, fabric with a hard, durable finish. The fabric is usually made of cotton, and is widely used in many applications.
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Durability
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The ability of a fabric to resist wear through continual use. May refer to abrasion resistance, tear strength, lightfastness or seam strength, among other characteristics.
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E
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Embossed Grain
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An artificial grain pressed into the surface of leather from which the original grain has been removed. This provides a consistent appearance throughout the hide, covering any natural defects.
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Embossing
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A calendering process in which fabrics, vinyls or leathers are engraved with the use of heated rollers under pressure to produce a raised design on the fabric surface.
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F
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FAR 25.853 (B)
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This flammability test applies to fabrics used as upholstery coverings in aircraft. One of the more stringent specifications for a fabric to pass.
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Finish
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A surface application on the leather to color, protect, or mask imperfections. More specifically, all processes administered to leather after it has been tanned.
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Flame Resistant
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Fabrics treated with special chemical agents or finishes to make them resistant to burning. Today many fabrics achieve this property by using fibers that have this property built directly into the polymer. A fabric is considered flame resistant if it passes federal specifications for specific end-uses. There is no single standard for flame resistance. The level required for your application will be dictated by your local fire marshal.
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Flame Retardant
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A chemical applied to a fabric, or incorporated into the fiber at the time of production, which significantly reduces a fabric's flammability.
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Flame Stitch
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Fabric design of a zig-zag that has the appearance of flames. Can be multi-colored or tone-on-tone.
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FMVSS-302
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A performance criteria and a test method for the flammability of all trim material including upholstery fabrics used inside the passenger compartment of autos sold in the USA.
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Full Grain
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